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    Experiments on uni-directional and nonlinear wave group shoaling
    We report an experimental study addressing the characteristic hydrodynamic transformations of unstable wave groups as well as JONSWAP wave fields propagating from deep-water towards shallow regions. Long zones of linearly rising floor levels have been installed to mimic a simplified coastal morphology. The breather surface elevation evolution data show a very good agreement with the depth-adapted nonlinear Schrödinger-type model. Our results suggest that the residual effects of four-wave resonance interactions in the shallower regions is relevant for the nonlinear group propagation over steep bottom topography slopes. When considering broadband JONSWAP processes, the model fails in predicting the evolution of kurtosis, independently of the values of significant wave height adopted. Nonetheless, consistency with the data is achieved when narrowing the spectrum of the JONSWAP wave field. Our study emphasizes the strong potential of weakly nonlinear frameworks in modeling complex wave shoaling problems and wave transformations in coastal zones.
    Publicationtype: Journal Article
      49
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    Gray solitons on the surface of water
    (American Physical Society (APS), 2014-01-10) ; ; ; ;
    The dynamics of surface gravity water waves can be described by the self-defocusing nonlinear Schrödinger equation. Recent observations of black solitons on the surface of water confirmed its validity for finite, below critical depth. The black soliton is a limiting case of a family of gray soliton solutions with finite amplitude depressions. Here, we report observations of gray solitons in water waves, thus, complementing our previous observations of black solitons. © 2014 American Physical Society.
    Publicationtype: Journal Article
      32
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    Item type:Publication, Access status: with files ,
    Experimental observation of dark solitons on the surface of water
    (American Physical Society (APS), 2013-03-21) ; ; ; ;
    We present the first ever observation of dark solitons on the surface of water. It takes the form of an amplitude drop of the carrier wave which does not change shape in propagation. The shape and width of the soliton depend on the water depth, carrier frequency, and the amplitude of the background wave. The experimental data taken in a water tank show an excellent agreement with the theory. These results may improve our understanding of the nonlinear dynamics of water waves at finite depths. © 2013 American Physical Society.
    Publicationtype: Journal Article
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